Castle tours in England

Tintagel Castle, on the rocky coast of westernmost Cornwall in England is not necessarily the oldest castle in England, but because of its association with the old Arthurian Legend and the ravages by the sea it has experienced, it only seems so. Actually the sea-worn blackened remains of the Norman era (1100) castle have been crumbling into the Atlantic since the 16th century, casting an eerie spell on the rocky coast. But nearby are the remains of a Celtic monastery from an earlier time, probably the 5th or 6th century, and it is from this era, that the legend and history of King Arthur and his court blend and are born.

The historic Arthur was apparently a Celtic warlord who resisted the Saxon advances of the fifth century. When the 12th century chronicler Geoffrey first wrote of Arthur and the knights of Camelot he located them in the area of Tintagel Castle. There, local folklore also featured Tristan and Iseult, King Mark, and Uther Pendragon and Ygrayne, who supposedly gave birth to Arthur.

The Tintagel remains are so far removed from habitable land one must walk to them from a grassy veer which winds down from meadow to marsh to sea. Four-wheel drive vehicles carry the handicapped, who’d be well-advised to stay shore-side and not venture down among the rocks or across the precipitous slopes and bridges. The bridges across deep gorges and connecting several portions of crumbling remains are awesome in their proportions and truly picturesque—worth the trip to England, rich with evocations of a time gone by.

Below, in a picturesque but somehow eerie shoreline, the supposed Cave of Merlin is visible, and partially exposed for further exploration. It’s easy to believe this was the scene of magical activity and the birthplace of heroes bigger than life, indeed

In Colchester, the oldest city in England, on top of 2,000 year-old Roman ruins was built another Norman castle, one of the most fascinating to visit in England today. What makes Colchester Castle so fascinating besides its size, setting, age and classic Norman style so representative of the 1066 conquest is that it is a working museum, one well done with educational and fun exhibits.

The castle was the largest in the land when it was built around 1170, and is built directly over the temple of Claudius of Roman times. Its builders mimicked the same herringboned brick pattern and support system of the Roman remains, creating a massive walled structure. In the Colchester Castle, a brilliant museum details the building up of Colchester’s layers, and exposes for all to see some amazing artifacts of the past.

Huge, intricately decorated mosaic floors from Roman times, gravestones of Roman centurions who died there, coins from Cunobelin and Queen Boudica’s (a local warrior who battled the Romans and destroyed early Colchester to be rid of them!) times, marked with tribal or personal letters of the king’s, a magnificently detailed piece of pottery, known as the Colchester Vase, pictures of local gladiatorial combat, and the finest Roman bronze ever uncovered in Britain, a statue of Mercury, are but a few of the earliest relics.

Actually, bits of pottery, bone and other remnants of pre-historic man form a sizable cache in the Castle’s collection, and a detailed and educational display regarding medieval days in Tudor Colchester draws much attention. The dungeon, used during the Reformation era, becomes a spooky and unsettling place, when vocally recorded scenarios are played out to demonstrate the dungeon’s uses in the religious conflicts of the times.

A small but excellent gift shop is available. The only negative to the castle might be the swarms of well-behaved, unformed British school children traversing it during daylight hours, although they are as interesting to observe at times as their historic landmarks.

Warwick Castle, the largest medieval castle in Britain, is the single must-see castle of all. Although Warwick owes much of its grace and beauty to 19th century restorations, the first fortress on the spot was raised in 914 by Ethelfleda, daughter of Alfred the Great. Much of the present structure originated in the 14th century at the hands of a local family involved in the Hundred Years War.

What make Warwick Castle particularly fascinating are three factors: dungeons, wax and gardens. First, starting at the lower level, Warlock’s dungeons were the holding cells of prisoners brought from France in the days of that 100 Years’ War, and have enough eerie features to frighten the most stalwart visitor.

Second are the wax figures created by Madame Tussaud’s, which currently own the castle. Tussaud’s have designed a theme display called “Royal Weekend Party,” displaying young Royals and their servants in varying stages of leisure and labor amidst the drawing rooms, dining rooms, kitchens, baths and multi-bedrooms of the restored and elegant interiors. There are musicians, bathers, diners, sights, sounds, smells and more to add to the special effects, and a battle scene in another area as realistic as anyone would want short of shooting real bullets.

Finally, the gardens at Warwick are exquisite. After trudging through the massive interiors, it’s a good plan to spend an hour relaxing the rose gardens. And the Peacock Gardens are fun. During the summer pipe and bagpipe bands, jousting displays and historic music groups play on the grounds throughout the day.

Arundel Castle represents the only Catholic fiefdom in England. It stands on a magnificent span of hillside overlooking the Arun River in West Sussex. Like most of England’s castles, it was built as part of the Norman’s amazing conquest of England in the 11th century, as the Normans progressed from the southeastern shores to western and northern England. This particular great castle was built by Roger deMontgomery, Earl of Arundel, and has been the seat of the Dukes of Norfolk and the Earls of Arundel for 700 years.

During the civil war it was badly damaged, and gradually restored to its final elegance. Fine furniture, tapestries, clocks and art work dating from the 16th century on adorn its rooms, many of which are open to the public. An amazing, long gallery hallway and other rooms contain portraits and paintings by VanDyck, Gainesborough, Reynolds, Lawrence and others. As Arundel is the only remaining Catholic fiefdom in England, it is repository for many of the treasures of Mary, Queen of Scots.

As seat of the Duke of Norfolk, whole rooms are devoted to heraldic items, as well as historic and religious ones, relevant to the Dukedom. Descendants of this Dukedom include Anne Boleyn and Catherine Howard, two wives of Henry VIII. The longest oriental carpets I have ever seen adorn its hallways.

Bodiam Castle in East Sussex is worth visiting for its charming, moated ruins. Set in a peaceful valley where grazing sheep roam, it appears probably more tranquil than it did soon after the Norman Conquest. So picturesque is the castle’s exterior as it is reflected in the moat, complete with drawbridge over which the visitor enters, that it is often the scene for filmmakers. Children particularly enjoy romping through its ruins, which include a huge round keep, mysterious spiral staircases and battlements, as well as towers, from which one can view the countryside for miles.

Nearby is Battle Abbey, where the Battle of Hastings determined the supremity of William the Conqueror’s Norman forces over the Angles, led by King Harold. Reenactments of the Battle of Hastings and other significant historic events relevant to the area are staged here on summer weekends, along with other festivals. The Abbey’s quaint ruins tell the story of early religious fervor as well as military prowess in the East of England, and is worth visiting.

North and slightly west of Hastings is the glorious Windsor Castle, current official residence of the modern royal family, the Windsors. The castle towers above the town of Windsor on steep chalky cliffs. William the Conqueror first built it as a wooden fortress, and Henry II rebuilt it in stone.

Much of the extensive improvements of Windsor over the years were destroyed by fire in 1992. Modestly restored since fire (and presumably made safer), many areas of the Castle are still most impressive to visit and should not be missed. Much of the State Apartments except when the Queen is in residence, at Easter, in June and December. Highlights to see include VanDyck’s triptych of Charles I in the King’s Dressing Room, the Queen’s Ballroom, dominated by an enormous silver mirror, and the Queen’s Audience Room, decorated with fine Gobelin tapestries. In the Queen’s Guard Chamber, heraldic and military mementos such as Prince Hal’s etched gold suit, amaze.

In the galleries, one can see one-of-a kind art works, such as Leonardo daVinci’s notebooks and drawings, and Queen Mary’s Dollhouses. Don’t miss a visit to St. George’s Chapel, a glorious perpendicular structure that contains the tombs of numerous kings and queens.

Nearby is the famous Eton College, worth visiting because of its role in educating many of England’s most influential males including recent graduate Prince William.